5 Essential Tips Before Owning a White-Lined Gecko
If you’re thinking about getting a white-lined gecko (also called skunk geckos), you’re in for a fun ride. These little lizards are some of the easier geckos to care for — especially if you're just getting into reptiles. They’re hardy, not too fussy, and have a calm temperament compared to their more intense cousins like Tokays. I’ve worked with a few over the years, and here’s everything I wish I knew from the start.
What Makes White-Lined Geckos Great Pets?
White-lined geckos come from Indonesia and are named for the striking white stripe that runs from their head to their tail. Their colors range from soft green to tan or brown, and they have those classic sticky toe pads that let them climb like pros.
They’re nocturnal, so don’t expect a ton of daytime action. But once the lights go down, they come alive — climbing, exploring, chirping… yes, they’re vocal! One of mine used to let out little squeaks when he was annoyed or looking for food.
Best part? They’re not aggressive. They might get a little skittish if not used to handling, but they rarely bite unless seriously stressed.
Setting Up Their Home
Tank Size & Setup:
A 20-gallon tall tank is perfect for one or a small group (females or one male with females — never two males, they’ll fight). These geckos love vertical space more than floor room, so think up, not out. Add branches, cork bark, bamboo, and sturdy plants for climbing and hiding.
Substrate:
You want something that holds moisture but is safe. Coconut fiber, cypress mulch, or moss all work well. I’ve even used paper towels when I needed something easy to clean during a health issue.
Humidity & Temperature:
They like it warm and humid. Keep daytime temps between 80–90°F, and don’t let it dip below 70°F at night. Humidity should stay in the 65–75% range. I use a spray bottle to mist the tank daily, especially at night when they’re most active. A hygrometer helps keep track.
Important: Keep heating elements out of reach — geckos will climb anything and can burn themselves on exposed bulbs or ceramic heaters.
Lighting:
They’re nocturnal, so UVB isn’t essential, but a low-level UVB bulb can support vitamin D3 production and bone health. Just make sure they have shaded areas to escape the light if they want.
Feeding Your Gecko
White-lined geckos are insectivores. Crickets are a staple, but variety is key. Offer roaches, silkworms, cutworms, or the occasional waxworm or mealworm as treats (they’re fatty, so go easy).
Feeding Schedule:
- Juveniles: daily
- Adults: every other day
Always gut-load insects (feed them nutritious food before offering to your gecko) and dust with calcium and vitamins a few times a week.
Health Tips
They’re generally hardy, but keep an eye out for:
- Mouth rot (stomatitis): Look for white, cheesy discharge around the mouth.
- Respiratory infections: Drooling or wheezing can be signs.
- Shedding issues: Bits of old skin stuck around toes or tail tip can cause problems.
If something seems off, don’t wait — find a reptile vet. Catching issues early makes all the difference.
Buying Advice
Stick with captive-bred geckos. Wild-caught ones are often stressed, harder to care for, and may carry parasites. A good breeder will be transparent about their geckos’ health and history.
Final Thoughts
White-lined geckos are a fantastic choice if you’re new to reptiles but still want something a little different. They’re not cuddly pets (not a great pick for young kids), but they’re fascinating to watch, relatively easy to care for, and full of personality once they settle in.
With the right setup and a bit of consistency, you’ll have a happy little climber exploring their mini jungle in no time.