30 things to know before owning a blood python
Thinking about getting a blood python? They’re stunning snakes — thick-bodied, beautifully colored, and surprisingly docile for their size. But they’re not the kind of pet you bring home on a whim. I’ve worked with reptiles for years, and I can tell you: blood pythons are rewarding, but they do require thoughtful care and setup. Here’s what you should know before taking one home.
Blood Pythons at a Glance
Blood pythons (Python brongersmai) come from the humid, tropical regions of Southeast Asia, and they’ve got the personality and needs to match. They're ambush predators, nocturnal by nature, and tend to be pretty chill once they settle in — especially captive-bred ones.
Size-wise, expect 4 to 6 feet in length and up to 30 pounds. That’s a lot of snake to handle, so you’ll need to be confident and physically capable of supporting their body when handling. Females tend to be larger than males.
They live a long time too — up to 25 years when well cared for. So make sure you’re ready for the commitment.
Are Blood Pythons Good Pets?
Yes — for the right person. If you’ve never owned a snake before, you’ll want to do your homework. Blood pythons aren’t aggressive (captive-bred ones, at least), but they do have specific environmental and handling needs.
They’re not fans of constant handling, and they can get stressed if their enclosure isn’t just right. But with patience, a good setup, and some basic snake-handling skills, they can become calm, fascinating companions.
Avoid wild-caught snakes — they’re more likely to be defensive, stressed, and carry health issues. Always go for captive-bred.
Setup: The Real Work Happens Before Your Snake Comes Home
Here’s where things get serious. The enclosure and environment are absolutely key for a healthy blood python.
Enclosure Size & Type
Minimum: 40-gallon tank (48” x 24” x 15”) — but bigger is better. Ideally, aim for a tank that’s twice as long as your snake and as wide as the snake’s body length.
Glass or glass/wood combo tanks work well. Side-opening doors are best because snakes like this don’t appreciate being approached from above.
Substrate
Use something that holds humidity but isn’t dusty. Good options: cypress mulch, shredded aspen, or chipped aspen. Avoid anything with too much dust — it can lead to respiratory problems.
Decor & Enrichment
Give your python places to hide and climb. They’re not tree-dwellers, but they love exploring rocks and low branches.
Add:
- At least two good hiding spots
- Climbable items like thick branches or smooth rocks
- Snake-safe plants (pothos, aloe, etc.)
- A humidity hide (DIY with a plastic box and damp moss works great)
Temperature & Humidity
Blood pythons thrive in consistent warmth and high humidity.
- Ambient temp: 80–82°F (can dip to 78°F at night)
- Basking spot: 86–88°F (optional, but useful)
- Humidity: 60–70%
Use a thermometer and hygrometer inside the tank to monitor both. A ceramic heater or incandescent bulb works for heat; just avoid bright white lights at night — they’ll mess with your snake’s rhythm. I’ve used red or blue bulbs for nighttime viewing.
Water Bowl
Get a big one — your snake should be able to soak its whole body in it. Change the water daily; they often poop in there, and it helps maintain humidity.
Feeding Your Blood Python
These snakes eat rodents or small birds — frozen/thawed only. Never offer live prey. Not only is it risky for your snake (mice can bite), but it also encourages predatory behavior you don’t want directed at you.
Feeding tips:
- Use tongs to avoid accidental bites
- Feed juveniles once a week
- Adults: every 2–3 weeks, depending on age, size, and weight
Size matters — the prey should be no wider than the thickest part of the snake’s body (not the head).
Handling: Go Slow, Stay Low
Captive-bred blood pythons can tolerate handling, but don’t overdo it. Always support their body and handle them close to the ground in case they slip. They’re heavy snakes, and a fall can be dangerous.
Don’t handle them during or right after shedding, or too soon after feeding. And never grab them from above — that’s how predators attack in the wild.
If you’re new to snakes, look up hook training. It’s a gentle way to let your snake know it’s handling time and not feeding time.
First Week = Most Important
When you first bring your blood python home:
- Give them space. Don’t handle them for the first 5–7 days.
- Monitor their behavior and environment closely.
- Make sure they’re eating and pooping normally.
Signs of stress or illness include:
- Wheezing or open-mouth breathing (could be a respiratory infection)
- Refusing to eat
- Trouble shedding
- Lethargy or unusual daytime activity
Have a reptile-savvy vet picked out in advance — not all vets handle snakes.
A Few Final Tips
- Don’t let kids handle blood pythons — too big, too risky.
- Learn proper handling techniques before you need them.
- Don’t skimp on the enclosure — a good setup makes all the difference.
- Watch for signs of distress and act early.
Blood pythons aren’t for everyone, but if you’re up for the challenge and fascinated by these beautiful animals, they can make amazing, long-lived companions. Just be prepared, be patient, and respect their needs — and you’ll have a very rewarding snake experience.