7 Things to Know Before Getting a Kingsnake
Thinking of bringing home a kingsnake? Good news: you picked one of the best beginner snakes there is.
They look dangerous. They act calm. And they ask surprisingly little of you in return.
These snakes are strikingly beautiful, low-maintenance, and easy to handle once they trust you. They’ve got that “danger noodle” look without any actual danger.
Below is everything I’d tell a friend before they got their first one — the good, the quirky, and the one rule you should never break.
Why Kingsnakes Make Great Pets
Here’s the short version: they’re small, tough, and drama-free.
Most top out around 4–5 feet, they’re nonvenomous, and they turn docile with regular handling. No fancy lighting rigs, no massive enclosures.
What really wins people over is the attitude. Kingsnakes are bold and curious — genuinely fun to watch as they explore their tank or climb over branches.
And then there’s the look.
Some mimic coral snakes or rattlers with vivid red, black, and yellow bands. A few will even rattle their tails as a bluff. It’s pure theater — they’re completely harmless.
| Category | Rating |
|---|---|
| Beginner-Friendly | |
| Handling | |
| Care Difficulty | |
| Escape Risk | |
| Housing With Others |
Now for the seven things that actually matter.
7 Things to Know Before Getting a Kingsnake
Some of these are reassuring. One of them is a hard rule you should never bend. Let’s go in order.
1. They’re not dangerous — even if they bite
Kingsnakes aren’t aggressive, but a startled or hungry one might nip.
Don’t panic. The bite is more of a pinch than anything serious — no venom, no real harm.
Better still, most bites are avoidable with a little training. More on that in point five.
2. One name, endless variety
There are about **45 types of kingsnakes**, including the beloved milk snake subspecies.
Colors and patterns vary wildly. Some look like copperheads, others like coral snakes — but none of them are venomous.
The upside for you: just pick a look you love and run with it.
3. They’re easy to care for
A standard **30–40 gallon tank** handles most kingsnakes. And since they’re nocturnal, you can skip the elaborate lighting setups.
But here’s the catch: they’re escape artists.
One more thing — give them vertical space. They’re not tree-dwellers, but they love to climb and explore.
4. Feeding is simple but regular
Adults eat once a week. Babies need food every **3–4 days**.
Frozen-thawed mice or baby rats are the way to go.
5. Train them early with hook or tap cues
Even a calm snake can confuse your hand with dinner.
The fix is simple: use a snake hook or gently tap them before handling. It signals “this isn’t feeding time.”
It’s a small habit that builds trust and makes every interaction smoother — especially with food-motivated snakes.
6. Keep the tank locked down
I know — I already warned you. But it matters that much.
Kingsnakes are surprisingly strong and relentlessly curious, especially at night. They’ll test every gap and loose lid you leave them.
- Check every latch and lid clip before lights out
- Seal any gap wider than a pencil
- Assume an old tank is “probably fine”
- Leave the lid resting loosely on top
7. Always house them solo
This is the rule you never break.
“Kingsnakes eat other snakes — even their own kind. It’s not a myth. It happens.”
If you want more than one, that’s fine — just give each snake its own tank.
Better safe than watching one become the other’s dinner.
Ready to build the perfect enclosure?
Setting Up Your Kingsnake’s Home
Get the habitat right once, and daily care becomes almost effortless. Here’s the checklist I use.
Tank Size
30–40 gallons for smaller species, up to 60 for larger ones. Rule of thumb: at least as long as the snake, about half as wide.
Heat Source
A heat mat, ceramic emitter, or basking bulb. Aim for a warm side at 85–90°F and a cool side at 75–80°F.
Lighting
Not essential since they’re nocturnal, but a low-output UVB bulb can be beneficial.
Substrate
Aspen, coconut fiber, or Reptichip work well. Layer it about 3–4 inches deep.
Humidity
They’re flexible — aim for 40–60%. A hygrometer takes the guesswork out.
Water Dish
Big enough to soak in, and cleaned regularly. Snakes are notorious for pooping in their water.
Hides & Climbing
At least two hides (one on each side) plus branches or cork bark to climb.
Humidity Box
Optional but handy around shedding. A small container of damp moss does the trick.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes — they’re one of the most beginner-friendly snakes out there. They’re hardy, nonvenomous, docile with handling, and don’t need a complicated setup.
Barely. A startled or hungry kingsnake may nip, but it feels more like a pinch than anything serious. There’s no venom and no real harm — and tap or hook training prevents most bites entirely.
Adults eat about once a week, while babies need food every 3–4 days. Frozen-thawed mice or baby rats are ideal — skip live prey to avoid injuring your snake.
No. Kingsnakes are known to eat other snakes, including their own kind. Always house them solo and give each snake its own tank.
Most species top out around 4–5 feet, which makes them a manageable size for a home enclosure.
Not really. They’re nocturnal, so elaborate lighting isn’t essential. A low-output UVB bulb can be a nice bonus, but proper heating matters much more.
It’s just their nature — they’re curious, strong climbers, and love to explore, especially at night. It’s not a sign of distress, but it is a reminder to keep every latch and gap secure.
Quick poll
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