7 Reasons Leopard Geckos Are Ideal Pets
Thinking about getting a leopard gecko? You're not alone — they’re one of the most popular pet reptiles, especially for beginners. And it’s easy to see why: they’re calm, easy to handle, and pretty darn cute. But like any pet, they do have specific needs. We've cared for geckos ourselves, and here’s what you should really know before bringing one home.
Why We Love Leopard Geckos
Leopard geckos are small (usually 6.5 to 8 inches long), gentle, and come in a wide variety of colors and patterns. They’re not slimy or scary like some people expect — in fact, they’re one of the most docile reptiles you can own. Kids can safely interact with them (under supervision, of course), and once they get used to you, they can even enjoy gentle handling.
They’re also crepuscular, which means they’re most active around dawn and dusk — perfect for those of us who work during the day but still want some pet interaction in the mornings or evenings.
The Essentials You Should Know
1. Feeding Requires Live Insects
This is the deal-breaker for some folks: leopard geckos eat only live insects. Crickets, mealworms, and roaches are staples, while waxworms should be an occasional treat (they're like junk food for geckos). Make sure the insects are appropriately sized — no bigger than the space between your gecko's eyes.
Juveniles eat daily, growing geckos every 2–3 days, and adults about once every 5 days. Feeding them is actually kind of fun once you get the hang of it — just be ready to deal with bugs.
2. They Live a Long Time
Leopard geckos can live 15–20 years with good care, which is much longer than many expect from such a small animal. This isn’t a short-term commitment — they’ll be with you for a big chunk of your life.
3. Environment Is Everything
Your gecko’s health depends entirely on its habitat. You'll need:
- A 20-gallon glass terrarium (good size for one adult gecko; avoid cohabiting geckos in the same tank — it often causes stress or aggression).
- Temperature gradient: 90°F (32°C) on the warm side, 75°F (24°C) on the cool side. Use two thermometers to monitor both zones.
- Heat source: A ceramic heat emitter or under-tank heater works great. Don’t rely on heat rocks — they can burn your gecko.
- Lighting: A UVB light isn’t mandatory since geckos are crepuscular, but from our experience, a low-level UVB source helps with overall health and immunity. Use it sparingly — about 10 hours a day.
- Humidity: Keep it between 30–40%. A hygrometer helps track this. For extra help during shedding, include a humidity hide (a small enclosed area with moist moss or paper towels).
4. No Sand Substrates
Avoid calcium sand or any loose substrate — it can cause dangerous blockages if ingested. Safer alternatives include reptile carpet, paper towels, shelf liner, or newspaper. Simple is best.
5. Shedding Support
Leopard geckos shed every few weeks. Usually it goes smoothly, but sometimes bits get stuck around toes or tails. Don’t peel it off — instead, give your gecko a shallow warm bath or make sure their humidity hide is doing its job. We’ve used a simple plastic container with a cutout and damp paper towels — works like a charm.
6. Only Buy Captive-Bred
Never buy wild-caught geckos. Not only is it illegal in many places, but wild ones tend to be stressed, aggressive, and more prone to illness. Always go through reputable breeders or stores that guarantee captive-bred animals.
Final Thoughts
Leopard geckos are a joy to own — calm, fascinating, and full of personality. But they’re not “set it and forget it” pets. Their care is straightforward once you’re set up, but it does take some initial prep and ongoing attention. If you’re okay with feeding live bugs, staying on top of temperature and humidity, and providing a safe, enriching enclosure, then you’re in for a great experience.
They may be small, but they’ll win over your heart in a big way.